Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Rhythms of Gulu

Man, it’s been a minute since I’ve written a blog. Sorry about that, I’m going to blame it on not having power and being busy and the traffic jam of cows on my way to work. Also my dog ate my homework. In all reality, it gets harder to write as time goes on because everything becomes normal and you get into a rhythm, so when I almost get in an accident, or get stuck in between a herd of cattle, I don't even think about saying anything about it because it's just life. Lots has happened since my last update, but don’t worry, this isn’t going to be a 20 page novel like normal. Or maybe it will. Yeah it probably will be. I think I’m going to aim to do shorter updates more often so I actually do them. We’ll see how that plays out. Where did we leave off? This is actually a legitimate question, I can’t get on the internet to reread my last blog… OK cool it loaded. Safari adventures with Brucie!

August was a pretty good month here, but sad at the same time.  A handful of good friends left Gulu, which sadly has become a trend. My three housemates left, one of them to go be a complete badass in the middle of a war-zone in Congo. Seriously, I wish I had balls like she did. The other two Rousseau sisters went back to the Northwest to move onto the next chapters of life. It was tough saying bye to them all, but I’m stoked for what God is doing through each of them. Restore lost another awesome member when Jenna got a sweet job running a hair stylist school, so that was also real tough. But we got a new volunteer that moved into the house, Hunter, who is here to do farming, but enjoys fishing. Hunter Farmer is a legit guy from Nashville who is really good at guitar and singing (very similar to my own talents). He's got crazy long hair, which if Jenna was still here, I would have convinced her to cut off. Along with Hunter, there’s some new interns for an organization called Krochet Kids, who you should check out if you haven’t heard of them. They employ women (not kids) who make beanies while going through a program that gives them life skills. It’s been fun making those new friends and going on adventures, making meals, or having Christmas in July together. One thing that is awesome about Gulu is how much time people spend with one another. When you don’t have TV, or power half of the time, your options become read by yourself (which I’m guilty of very often), or hang with people, make a meal together and have a candlelit game of Charades, Bananagrams, or some Mafia.  Plus, having everyone live one quick boda ride from each other helps too. Except when it rains, then you just stay home. It’s actually funny how the rain creates pretty legitimate excuses for a lot of things. “Ah, I didn’t make it to school today because of the rains” and people totally understand. Riding a street bike without good treads on the rain is like trying to line dance on an ice rink. Which I’ve never tried, it just seems pretty difficult. That can be pretty frustrating when it comes to getting construction work done, but it’s part of life and you just gotta deal with it. 

September was pretty freaking awesome. Brett came to visit for 3 weeks, and Evan Luchaco came for a couple weeks also. Brett got to come up to Gulu for a few days, meet the people, meet a crew of our workers and throw some bricks around at the school, and see the town. Unfortunately, my visa needed to be renewed a few days into him being here, so that meant going to Kampala. On the bus down, two windows were broken, one was shattered and tiny pieces of glass were falling out on the passengers, and the other one was cracked, so they were more of shards than small pieces of glass. This was the start to our pretty poor-luck of Ugandan public transportation. Half-way to Kampala a rather large shard of glass falls on the nearby passengers, luckily no one was hurt. Half an hour later, the bus conductor went and punched out the rest of the window so that no glass pieces were falling. Seems like a good idea, except then really fine pieces of glass were flying several seats back, so I had to wear a sweatshirt and pull the hoodie over my head. Good thing there was a lot of airflow on the bus that day or else I would have been extremely hot. So it was a pretty normal bus ride and then we get to Kampala.  Well I got denied for a tourist visa extension at the office, which was a bummer because that meant having to go to another country. Well, we decided on Kenya. I wasn’t feeling too great at this point, but had to get out of the country or else I’d be in trouble.

We hopped on a night bus taking off at 7, and the ride is supposed to be 4 hours. It started out pretty uneventfully, so Brett and I get some restless sleeping in. At about 10 at night, the bus breaks down. Sweet. They’re not able to fix it, so they have to send another one, which means waiting 3 hours for the next bus to come, then moving on from there. It’s about 3:30 in the morning by the time we get to Kenya. We cross over then look for a place to stay since we’re just going back to Uganda the next day. We’re walking towards what looks like the city center and some guy (he seemed friendly) talks to us and starts leading us to a hotel to crash in. We follow him into the “city center”, which isn’t much of anything, and is totally dark at this point because there aren’t streetlights over here for the most part. It starts to feel a little sketchy, but we keep going. We enter through a couple storefronts into sorta an alleyway, and it opens up into a courtyard. I notice that some guy had started to follow us as we crossed through this passageway, and on the other side of the courtyard the guy tries to direct us through an unmarked gate claiming that there is a hotel in there. Even though it was 4 am after a long day of traveling, Brett and I both knew better and decided to go off by ourselves and not go through this sketchy gate into a dark area with the empty promise that there is a hotel through there. I’m not totally sure, but I think we might have been mugged if we had gone in. Once we turned away from here, the guy stopped following us and we went to the nearest building with lights on. We get a room, and after entering into it and our nostrils being filled with the stench of some rotting animal, we request a new one. Second one seemed decent enough, so we crash there.

The next day we go back to Uganda and decide to spend a night at Sipi falls, which is this beautiful retreat place where the weather was cooler (like, maybe even in the 60’s at night) and there is some beautiful waterfalls to hike around, and also freshly roasted coffee available to buy. It was pretty crazy realizing how refreshing it was just to be around mountains of some sort and not the flat landscape of Gulu. Back to Kampala the next day and we have Evan picked up from the airport and taken to the house we were crashing at (which was on top of a hill overlooking Kampala, maybe the coolest view in the city). Ev gets in around 2, so we all get some good sleep, get some breakfast the next day, then head on to Fort Portal, which is the city where we’re doing a triathlon the next weekend. The week was an awesome mixture of some outdoor adventures, randomly meeting a guy I’d been corresponding to over email about renting bikes, then biking to some caves, seeing lots of smaller crater lakes (nothing compared to ours in Oregon), a safari, and also just relaxing and enjoying having some time together.
The safari was pretty sick. We went to a different park from the last time I safari’d with my Dad. We got to go on a boat tour and also drove around the park searching for the elusive lion. Unfortunately, no such luck. But, on the way back to Fort Portal, we saw a group of elephants. I think it’s technically called a herd, but I prefer the term hellaphants. Over ten of them crossed within 20 meters of our car, including one straggler, who was smart enough to look both ways before he crossed. Impressive, especially considering a ton of people in this country don’t even do that. We stopped at the equator point, took some touristy photos and then went back.

Our country director John came down for the triathlon, which was one of the more fun days I’ve had yet. The swim was in this crater lake with clean, perfect temperature water, then the bike ride was around the surrounding villages (more of a BMX race than a road race, which made it extra fun and extra sketchy at the same time, considering the quality of bikes). The race finished with a run around the rim of the crater lake where the swimming leg of the race was. John got 2nd behind the guy who coordinated the whole thing, and I was pretty average. At least I beat that 9-year old. The rest of the day was spent hanging with all the other contestants, then heading back to Kampala so we could get up to Gulu the next day.

The plan was to grab some breakfast then go to Gulu as early as possible, except we didn’t account for the biggest storm I’d seen in Kampala hitting. Luckily we were stuck in a café with a group of Gulu friends, but there was some serious lightning happening within a kilometer of where we were.  That delayed our departure until 2:00 where we went to the bus park and prepared for another bus adventure. Well 2:00 turned into 4:30 by the time we left, then we got stuck in traffic and didn’t end up getting out of the city until 6:00. Not the best start. The rest of the drive was extremely slow, so it was 2:00 am before we got back. Oh the joy of a crammed 12 hour bus ride.

Well something hit Evan pretty bad and he felt like crap the whole time he was in Gulu, which was a bummer. He was a trooper and made the half-hour boda ride to the school but I could tell he wasn’t feeling too great. Unfortunately, sickness is just part of life here but it sucked that it had to hit him during his short stay here. We got to celebrate his birthday together, probably not one of his best, but a memorable one none-the-less. He took off the next day but luckily some of my friends were heading to Kampala and were able to accompany him during his ride. Brett and I had a handful more days to julk around in Gulu before he went back to Switzerland. One day we decided to go to the abandoned railcars. We left Epona a couple miles away and started walking on the tracks. We meet Michael, a friendly teacher who turned out to be a primary school teacher. Mid-conversation, an old lady comes up and speaks Lwo to Michael and says hi to us, then walks off. A couple minutes later we’re still talking with Michael and this old lady comes back screaming bloody murder and swinging her arms above her head wildly. I wasn’t immediately sure what was going on, maybe she was trying to put a curse on us, or it was some new Acholi dance. When she got closer, we realized she had a swarm of bees attacking her. Brett and I looked at each other and realized we couldn’t really do anything to help her and started to run away like little school girls. I’ve heard that bees can sense fear, which is probably why they went after Brett and not myself, he was fearing seriously, I was just fearing somehow. Torn between trying to help this lady and not wanting to get killed by a swarm of African bees, we’re asking people around to try to help this lady, but we seemed to be the only ones concerned and most people were just laughing about it. Sometimes I just don’t get this culture, although I did receive an email a week later from Michael saying the lady survived so that’s good.

Well Brett and I take yet another Post Bus ride back to Kampala which just happened to be on his birthday. We went out for a nice dinner where we ate different type of game meat, mostly types of Kob (deer looking things) but also had some crocodile and stuff. Pretty delicious. As the car pulls up to take Brett to the airport, we’re bracing for a goodbye, which may have been sad if the driver wasn’t playing backstreet boys in the background. It was hard not to laugh at the situation. That is one positive of Uganda music, they still play those hits from the 90’s and 2000’s. There’s been a handful of nights where I drive home singing backstreet boys  out loud because it’s stuck in my head, and I’m not even ashamed at it. Everyone things we mzungus are crazy anyways, so might as well reinforce the stereotype!

The next month was pretty uneventful besides moving houses and playing spikeball. I am now living with 4 other guys (Don't call it a frat house) in another part of town than before. Two of the guys work with Krochet Kids, one with Restore, and one with another company called Remnant. We have our own compound, which is pretty sweet. We have room to play spikeball, and are also in the middle of making a sand volleyball/spikeball court. It’s going to be sick. I’ll put up pictures once it’s done. Spikeball has become a favorite pastime here and everyone is getting pretty good at it. It’s a nice stress reliever at the end of a long day.

At the end of October we had a group of people comKK, 31 Bits, and an Invisible Children project called Mend. You should all buy Christmas presents from them, it’s a great way to give great products that also contribute to helping not only fund the work here, but also teach the workers life skills like saving, budgeting and planning for their futures. Ouch. Just sprained my ankle jumping off of that soap box. Anyways, the group was in Uganda for over a week, and 4 of those days were in Gulu. The graduation at the school was pretty awesome, and also a bit sad. I knew quite a few of the graduating students, and although it was awesome to see their faces as they got their diplomas, the thought that I may not see some of them again wasn’t easy to think about. After a long day of picture-taking on corny backdrops, we all head back into town for a dinner with the group. The next day was going to be our traditional healer graduation.



e with Bob for our school’s graduation. We got to spend some quality time with some really great people, showing them around Gulu, checking out other organizations like
Small backstory: traditional healers, or witch doctors, are pretty common over here and they often resort to things like animal sacrifices, or in extreme cases human sacrifices as a means to receive “powers” from evil spirits. Bob has been working with traditional healers, running sting operations, convicting them of murders, and holding regional meetings to let all the witch doctors know that Uganda now has a law in place and they’re not afraid to put them in prison for life for any illegal activities for their practices. But this practice is shunned in the majority of Uganda, and therefore these traditional healers are seen as outcasts of society and not accepted into the community. They don’t go to schools, and don’t allow their children to go to schools so they’re not educated and can’t speak English. This is where some former Restore students got involved. They held bi-weekly classes to not only teach them English, but also share God’s love with them and show that they’re not stuck in their practices and can continue to learn in order to rejoin society as a contributing member, not someone who is feared by the local village people. All that to say, we had a graduation for this group who had gone through our program. The graduation was great, even some local news came to do a story but we turned them away. They put on graduation gowns, got certificates (Ugandans LOVE certificates), and even presented a drama for us (they love those too). Although it was long and drawn out (much like my blogs), it was interesting to see. The story basically was showing what their life had been like when participating in child sacrifices and when they were involved in their former practices. The group of visitors took off after this, and I then had about 5 hours to make a Halloween costume for the party we were hosting at our house. Luckily I had the easiest costume of the group and went as the Yellow Brick Road from Wizard of Oz. I thought it was funny, but people took advantage of the situation and made fun of me. I really got walked all over. We ended up having like 50 people over and had a really fun night.


And that brings us to the present. I’m sure I missed some fun stories, but you got the highlights. The Sportscenter Top 10, if you will. I’ve decided to commit to another year over here continuing construction projects, doing some accounting, and whatever else I find time to do! I’m really excited to come back and keep the work going. Oh yeah, I’m coming back to Oregon mid-December for a month to visit, so I hope to see you all around! I don’t think I’ll have a cell phone, so Facebook message might be the best way to get ahold of me. I’ll update you all if that changes. Anyways, thanks for spending time reading this, sorry I took so long between updates, I’ll try and be better in the future! Here's a couple bonus pictures that I think are kinda cool.

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